Archives for the month of: March, 2010

Signs

Spring, Propaganda, Illegal Documents, and Old Men


After valiantly fighting through 12 rounds of food poisoning, I made it a point to go out today with camera in hand to capture something I’ve been meaning to capture for a while.

Signs

Our streets here are littered with all kinds of signage.  You have the normal stores, restaurants, and fruit stand signs – but that’s not what I was after.  What most people don’t realize when they first come to China is that when you build a wall, any wall, that wall is now a virtual bulletin board.  Public announcements, signs warning against H1N1, illegal documents – all plastered haphazardly on whatever space they can find.

I noticed this months ago and like I said, I’ve been meaning to capture it.

As I walked out the door I realize that most people, like me, were taking advantage of a sunny 50+ degree day.  Tons of people out.  I realized quickly that there were different kinds of signs I was seeing today as well – Springtime & Modernization were among them.  I did get a lot of what I was after, but I also got a lot more.

Nonetheless, It was a fun day out shooting things I normally wouldn’t shoot.

More after the break…

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Modernization

The Machine is in Motion: What now?


On Thursday I threw up a post about scouting out our local Tibetan market. I was excited to find that these markets have these old plexiglass roofs that have changes to all sorts of interesting colors.  I wanted to shoot the modernizing Tibetan culture in a place surrounded by the ancient.

Things rarely, if ever, go the way you want them to here.  The streets that I wanted to shoot on were blocked off by cars that hadn’t been there the day before.  The guys we had found turned out to be awesome – I’ll elaborate on that in a second.  Anyways, they all showed up 45 minutes late and then everyone had to leave 20 minutes after we started.  To top things off I had a flash completely bite the dust on me.  For those of you keeping track – that’s the setting, the setup, and the timeframe all shot.  Nonetheless, it was an awesome rushed 20 minute shoot.

Over a very quick Tibetan-style breakfast I learned quiet a bit about our models.  One of them is a law student with one year left until he graduates.  He also spoke fluent english.  The other is a striving business man and also a part-time student at one of the high-level colleges in our city.  Is that what you think of when you think of a Tibetan?

Here’s the contrast: Less than 10 years ago both of these guys were nomads.

NGO, humanitarian, and travel photographers everywhere undoubtedly deal with this routinely.  We go off to get the “exotic” shot in some place that we are certain hasn’t been touched by modernization only to find a monastery that owns it’s own gas station (click here & here), a generations-old workshop with a plasma screen tv and a Nintendo Wii setup inside, or a nomad with an iPhone.

What now?  What is our response supposed to be in the face of inevitable modernization?

I fear that our immediate response is to reject modernization outright rather than seeing how it’s adapted into the culture and no harm is done and how modernization has actually helped a society.  How often do we put on the self-righteous mask and end up doing more harm than good?  Am I going to refuse to teach my neighbor how to use his carbon monoxide detector simply because it represents modernization?

I know many people in western cultures that actually takes more offense to this than the changing culture does.  We as humans seem to be creatures of habit – we don’t like change.  As soon as we seen change we throw on the brakes, cry foul, and start picketing the nearest Wal-Mart.  Don’t hear me saying that modernization doesn’t have the ability to erode culture – I believe it does have that ability.  My question is simply how do we as people, often times trying to help and do the right thing, interact with this.

In most societies the machine is in motion and we can’t stop it whether we deem it good or bad.  With that in mind I think we must consider our response

  • How can we effectively document the change?
  • Do we carry a bias that actually prevents us from documenting what is actually happening
  • Do we have the right as a cultural outsider to decide for a culture if modernization is in it’s best interest?
  • If we are seeking to help, is complaining about the change rather than actually helping within the change really a good idea?
  • Are we just miffed because it’s not what we expected?  Does the monk playing the Wii ruin the shot we made in our mind?

I’m an advocate for cultural preservation, but I’m more of an advocate for actually helping rather than fighting the wind.

Some food for thought, these guys that I photographed this morning – every bit Tibetan and every bit business men, students, and future leaders.  They embrace both their culture and the change (notice those suit pants on underneath the traditional cloak). I didn’t plan the shoot this way – I was envisioning something completely different.  The fact that this is what I got should say something about the changing nomadic society.  Honestly, I love what I got.

I intentionally left this post open ended – mostly because I doubt there is an exact answer.

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Seasonal Winds ( 刮风)

Kinda cool - but mostly annoying


Definetly a “Page 2″ rant here.

  • Gua Feng/刮风:  ”Scraping, shaving, blowing wind.”
  • Brian’s Translation:  ”Annoying + Gritty + Ugh.”

Every spring here we have about 25 – 40 days of high seasonal winds – and consequently big ol’ sandstorms.  It’s really cool to see a sand storm for the first time; a sentiment that wears off 3 minutes into your first sand storm.  Unless you are that 0.0001% of planet earth that enjoys eating sand, this time of year can be difficult.  Just part of life in China – a part of China that I won’t be missing in 30 days.

You see, China has this big pile of sand known to most as the Gobi Desert, which is basically a huge pile-o-sand that some giant dump truck left there thousands of years.  Long story short, the construction project got cancelled,  everyone went home, some Chinese folk named it and declared it a desert and camels moved in.  The situation we are looking at now is this:

Lots of sand + Altitude + Changing winds = Sand in my mouth 24/7 for a straight month.

It’s a time of great tribulation (I’m exaggerating - it’s mildly annoying) – however, it is a time where I’m cleaning my glass constantly.

Every day around 2pm it kicks up and the locals run for cover – imagine a Godzilla movie.  We live in a valley and so we can literally see it rolling through in a not-so-subtle way.  By 4pm, on the worst days, it feels like 7pm and you start wondering if today will be the day that your windows actually rattle off their tracks.  Today’s 刮风 was especially bad.  I was outside buying some vegetables when I made a dash for home.  Took these shots as pure reference from inside our apartment – the only good place to take these kinds of pictures.

 

Market Scouting

This has nothing to do with St. Patrick's day


Our markets in town are all amazing places to take a camera (and avoid leaving money/phones/valuables in your pockets).  One of my favorites and one of the only places on the planet (that I know of) where you will find Muslims selling Tibetan goods to Tibetans is at our local Tibetan market.  The fact that I saw 4 very unique and individual ethnic groups in one setting is what makes where I live simply amazing.  Depending on whose counting, we have as many as 7 unique ethnic groups in one place.

I spent close to 3 hours today with a student on a photo assignment as well as scouting some locations for a shoot on Friday.  It’s always nice to come home with images you are proud of from a scouting trip – excited for Friday’s shoot (stay tuned)

Some Highlights:

  1. Chinese girl yelling at me in English “My name is China!”
  2. Saw a piece of Tibetan Coral that cost 50,000RMB (~$7,300 USD) ie, more than my first car.
  3. Was told “Your head is really small for you being so big” – I have to disagree
  4. Met a beggar that has – no kidding – “Dreams of studying Chinese Kung Fu”
  5. Was stoked to shoot w/ a student catching on and just “Getting it”

Like I said, it’s nice to scout but at the same time come home with pictures you are proud of. -

Pictures after the break

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Brian Hirschy Photography